Sansai In Japan : How People Enjoy Spring In Snow Country

In Japan's heavy snowfall areas, people live surrounded by snow for almost half a year. In spring, Sansai (Wild vegetable) appear from the mountains when the snow melts.

Japanese people feel and enjoy the arrival of the spring season by eating Sansai.

There are many kinds of wild vegetables that have been familiar to the Japanese people since ancient times.


What is Sansai?

Photo by Jinomono Media on Unsplash


Among edible plants, vegetables grown by humans in fields are called "vegetables (Yasai / 野菜)" while those that grow wild in the natural environment are called "Sansai (山菜)".

Vegetables have been improved through repeated breeding, so they have a good taste and a stable yield, and are distributed regardless of the season.

On the other hand, Sansai have a limited season and a limited harvest, and are therefore enjoyed as seasonal foods. The bitter taste unique to wild plants has made them a characteristic food not found in vegetables, and they have been enjoyed by the Japanese people since ancient times.


Wild Vegetables Have Been Enjoyed for a Long Time

It is said that people ate wild vegetables more than 5,000 years ago (from Jomon period), as the seeds of Fatsia sprouts have been discovered in the Sannai-Maruyama Ruins (Aomori prefecture).


The oldest anthology of poetry in Japan, "the Manyoshu" (万葉集 : compiled between the late 7th and late 8th centuries), also shows that people in the Nara period(710-794) ate a variety of wild vegetables. 

Yamabe Akahito, a poet of the Nara period (710-794), wrote a poem in "the Manyoshu" that says, "Tomorrow I will pick the young spring vegetables (Butterbur scape), but yesterday and today the snow has fallen and it is hard to pick the wild vegetables."

Akahito yamabe - 「三十六歌仙額」 山邊赤人/梶井宮盛胤法親王 - public domain - from wikipedia


It is said that sansai also saved the Japanese people during times of famine and food shortages.

There are records that many people were able to survive hunger thanks to sansai when famines caused by bad weather and poor harvests of rice and vegetables in the Edo period (1603-1868), and even in the 20th century, during the wartime and post-war food shortages.

As the distribution of vegetables became more stable to supply after the rapid economic growth of Japan, vegetables became the main food on the table.

On the other hand, sansai are unique to mountain and farming villages, are safe and pesticide-free, and are enjoyed as a seasonal food source. They are also attracting attention for their value as nutritional and medicinal foods that help maintain and improve health.


Popular Sansai

There are many kinds of sansai, here are seven of the most popular ones.


Hukinoto (Butterbur scape)

Fukinoto prefers to grow along streams and in damp places. - 沢沿いや湿った地面を好んで生えている。 - aomorikuma - CC 表示-継承 3.0 - from wikipedia

Fukinoto can be harvested from February to May (when the snow melts).

It is a popular Sansai with a unique bitter flavor. They can be found everywhere along roads and riverbeds.


Warabi (Bracken)

葉が開くまえ・通常この程度を食用とする - Kropsoq - CC 表示-継承 3.0 - from wikipedia

Warabi can be harvested in April and May.

Warabi is one of the Sansai that most contains lye (Source of bitterness), and if people eat without removing the scum, it can cause food poisoning.


Zenmai (Osmunda japonica)

渦巻き状を呈する新芽 - Kropsoq - CC 表示-継承 3.0 - from wikipedia

Zenmai can be harvested from March to June.

It is known as a sansai that requires a lot of work to remove the scum and prepare to eat. Because of the difficulty of harvesting and the time and effort required for processing, domestically produced zenmai is often considered a luxury item.


Kogomi (Ostrich fern)

Kogomi (Matteuccia struthiopteris) - Kropsoq - CC BY-SA 3.0 - from wikipedia

Kogomi can be harvested from May to early June.

Kogomi is popular because it has little lye and can be eaten as salad or boiled seasoned vegetables (Ohitashi) with minimal preparation.


Udo (Aralia cordata)

Udo ready for eating as Sansai / Udo - 山菜として食べごろになったウドの若芽 - あおもりくま(Aomorikuma)- CC 表示-継承 3.0 - from wikipedia

Udo can be harvested in April to early May.

Timing is important because udo is not edible when it grows too big.


Taranome (Fatsia sprouts)

Taranome ready for eating / 食べごろのタラの芽 - あおもりくま(Aomorikuma)- CC 表示-継承 3.0 - from wikipdeia

Taranome can be harvested until March to early April (or until June in mountainous areas).

Taranome is also known as "the king of wild vegetables" and is a popular wild vegetable that many people try to harvest during the sansai season in Japan.


Koshiabura (Eleutherococcus sciadophylloides)

Koshiabura - 山菜としての「コシアブラ」- Qwert1234 - CC 表示-継承 4.0 - from wikipediia

Koshiabura can be harvested in April and May.

Koshiabura is often eaten as tempura or chopped vegetables (Aemono).


Reference:
山菜のすすめ 林野庁経営課 特用林産対策室
人気の山菜10選!山菜の種類・特徴・おいしい食べ方マニュアル
The History of 山菜
【全34種類】山菜の種類一覧|春・夏・秋・冬の美味しい山菜まとめ

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